Introduction
In the world of fashion, where trends come and go with the seasons, denim remains a constant—a fabric that has stood the test of time and continues to be a wardrobe staple for people of all ages and styles. At the heart of this denim revolution is Benjamin Talley Smith, a man whose name might not be widely recognized but whose work has undoubtedly touched the lives of countless denim enthusiasts around the globe. Known as the “denim whisperer,” Smith has worked behind the scenes for nearly two decades, quietly shaping the jeans industry from luxury labels to mass-market retailers. This article explores his journey, his contributions to the denim world, and his vision for the future.
A Passion for Denim
Benjamin Talley Smith’s journey into the world of denim began in an unexpected place: the Massachusetts College of Art and Design. Initially interested in film, Smith switched his focus to fashion, drawn by the tactile nature of working with his hands. A brief stint with a Boston designer took him to Paris, where his love for denim truly blossomed. In 2003, he joined Tommy Hilfiger, where he was thrust into the world of jeans just as premium denim was becoming a major trend. “I was 25 and suddenly responsible for denim,” Smith recalls. “It was a baptism by fire, but I loved every minute of it.”
Smith’s passion for denim is evident in his approach to the fabric. He treats each pair of jeans like a canvas, experimenting with different washes, dyes, and cuts to create unique styles that push the boundaries of what denim can be. “Every jean tells a story,” he says. “It’s not just about the fabric; it’s about the history, the wear, and the personal touches that make each pair unique.”
Crafting Iconic Jeans
Figure 1: Paint Splattered Jeans 1998, reissued pair created by Mr Smith in 2017Smith’s expertise quickly caught the attention of the fashion world, and he began to collaborate with a variety of brands, from high-end labels like Helmut Lang and Khaite to more accessible names like Reformation and Everlane. One of his most notable contributions was to Khaite’s Danielle jeans, a high-waisted, straight-leg style that became a sensation after being worn by Kendall Jenner. “The Danielle jeans were a game-changer,” says Catherine Holstein, Khaite’s founder. “Ben’s ability to understand what women want in a pair of jeans is unparalleled. He knows how to make jeans that not only fit well but also make you feel confident.”
Smith’s influence extends beyond aesthetics. He is deeply involved in the technical aspects of denim production, from fabric selection to washing techniques. His understanding of denim’s unique properties allows him to create jeans that are not only stylish but also comfortable and durable. “Denim is a science,” he explains. “It’s about getting the right fit, the right wash, and the right feel. It’s a delicate balance, but when you get it right, it’s magic.”
The Science of Denim
Figure 2: Patchwork jeans created by sewing together different wash panelsDenim is a complex fabric that requires a deep understanding of its properties to manipulate it effectively. Smith is a master of this craft, constantly experimenting with new techniques to achieve the perfect wash and fit. “Every wash tells a story,” he says. “It’s like a living, breathing thing. It doesn’t always come out the way you want it to, but that’s what makes it so exciting.”
Smith’s work often involves a meticulous process of trial and error. He spends hours in denim labs, testing different washes and treatments to achieve the desired effect. “It’s a bit like being a scientist,” he says. “You have to experiment, take notes, and refine your process until you get it right.” His dedication to his craft has earned him a reputation as one of the most skilled denim specialists in the industry, with brands frequently seeking his expertise to create new denim lines.
Sustainability in Denim
As the fashion industry faces increasing scrutiny over its environmental impact, Smith has been at the forefront of efforts to make denim production more sustainable. He has collaborated with brands like Everlane and Walmart to develop eco-friendly denim lines that minimize water usage and reduce waste. “Sustainability is not just a trend; it’s a necessity,” he says. “We have to find ways to make denim production more sustainable without sacrificing quality or style.”
Smith’s commitment to sustainability is evident in his work with Free Assembly, Walmart’s sustainable denim line. The collection uses innovative washing techniques that significantly reduce water consumption and employ recycled materials to create stylish, affordable jeans. “It’s about finding that balance between affordability and sustainability,” he explains. “We want to make sustainable fashion accessible to everyone.”
Innovating with Technology
One of the keys to Smith’s success is his willingness to embrace new technologies in denim production. He frequently collaborates with textile innovators to develop new fabrics and finishes that enhance the look and feel of denim. “Technology is changing the way we think about denim,” he says. “From laser treatments to eco-friendly dyes, there are so many exciting developments happening right now.”
Smith is particularly excited about the potential of laser technology in denim production. “Laser treatments allow us to create intricate patterns and fades without using harsh chemicals,” he explains. “It’s a game-changer for the industry, and it opens up so many possibilities for creativity and sustainability.”
The Future of Denim
As denim continues to evolve, Smith remains optimistic about the future of the fabric. He sees a growing interest in heritage styles and vintage-inspired washes, as well as a continued focus on sustainability and innovation. “Denim is always evolving,” he says. “It’s a fabric that can be reinvented in so many ways, and I think we’re just scratching the surface of what’s possible.”
Looking ahead, Smith is excited about the potential for new collaborations and projects that push the boundaries of denim even further. “I’m always looking for new challenges,” he says. “Whether it’s creating a new fit, developing a sustainable fabric, or experimenting with new washes, there’s always something new to explore in the world of denim.”
Conclusion
This article is a re-creation of a feature on Mr. Smith published in the New York Times by vanessa Friedman. For more insights on Benjamin Talley Smith’s work and his impact on the denim industry, be sure to explore the original New York Times article: The Most Influential Jeans Guy You’ve Never Heard Of, Vanessa Friedman, May 28, 2024, New York Times.
