After two years of dedicated work to advance responsible purchasing practices, the Learning and Implementation Community (LIC) has concluded its activities. During a public meeting held on November 13, the LIC shared valuable lessons from its two-year journey, highlighting significant improvements achieved by participating brands.
While there has been substantial focus on the risks of poor purchasing practices and their negative impacts on human rights in supply chains—such as excessive working hours and low wages—there has been relatively little emphasis on practical solutions. Stories of companies successfully implementing positive changes are rare. To address this gap and promote real progress, the Responsible Purchasing Practices (RPP) Learning and Implementation Community (LIC) was established in 2022 by key organizations, including the Ethical Trading Initiative, Ethical Trade Norway, Fair Wear, the German Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, and Solidaridad.
This community, consisting of 35 garment brands, met online every two months to learn from manufacturers, experts, and each other. The group experimented with practical improvements in RPP, sharing their experiences along the way. Every alternate meeting included manufacturers participating in hands-on breakout discussions. Some sessions brought together over 60 individuals from brand teams (both commercial and sustainability departments) and 50–60 factory managers from key manufacturing countries. These manufacturers were invited either by the brands or through local apparel manufacturing associations, facilitated by the Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative (STTI), a key LIC partner. The LIC was funded by STITCH and the Initiative for Global Solidarity (IGS) and implemented by GIZ, with STTI’s involvement supported by GIZ FABRIC.
Key Outcomes
The LIC achieved measurable progress:
- 70% of participating companies sought supplier feedback on the impact of their purchasing practices.
- 60% improved two-way communication with suppliers, with the same percentage actively engaging in joint problem-solving initiatives.
- 55% worked on improving forecasting accuracy and monitored internal critical path adherence.
Animesh, a garment manufacturer from India, shared:
“We saw this as a good opportunity to raise issues we are experiencing. The discussions were organized by a neutral third party, with brands we do not have business relationships with, so we could be honest without fear of losing business. If pricing or practices are not fair, it won’t be sustainable in the long run. I’m sure this will bring improvements and create a win-win situation for both suppliers and brands.”
Participating Brands’ Actions
Several brands have openly shared the changes they implemented as a result of LIC participation:
- Holzweiler now establishes lead times based on supplier information, enforcing a deadline beyond which no changes are allowed.
- HEMA formed a cross-departmental team to implement RPP, gained supplier feedback, and secured senior management support.
- Zeeman conducted interactive RPP training for buyers and designers, and collaborated with suppliers to develop a “Two-way Code of Conduct,” outlining mutual responsibilities.
- Norwegian Concept increased video calls with suppliers to address challenges collaboratively, such as developing new products to use surplus materials.
- Hobbs simplified their critical path, improved order planning communication, increased sampling efficiency, and consolidated fabric purchases to minimize waste.
Next Steps
The RPP Working Group, which developed the “Common Framework on Responsible Purchasing Practices” in 2022, has expanded to include the Fair Labor Association and ET Denmark. The group is now working on an Accountability Framework with benchmarks and KPIs to measure company performance. This framework is open for consultation.
Looking ahead, the group will continue promoting the Common Framework as a tool for implementing Human Rights Due Diligence legislation. In 2025, they plan to launch an online Resource Hub featuring video clips and briefings to guide companies in enhancing their purchasing practices. Collaboration with the STTI will ensure ongoing shared learning between apparel brands and manufacturers.
Notes to the Editor (Not for Publication):
- This press release was created on behalf of the Ethical Trading Initiative, Ethical Trade Norway, Fair Wear, the German Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, Solidaridad, and the Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative.
- The LIC was funded by the Initiative for Global Solidarity (IGS), implemented by Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH (supported by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development), and the Sustainable Textile Initiative: Together for Change (STITCH), supported by the Dutch Government. STTI’s involvement was funded by GIZ FABRIC.
- Manufacturers involved in discussions represented diverse countries, including Indonesia, Morocco, China, Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, and Turkey.
