There’s a strong sense of community amongst the major manufacturers of denim fabrics, who are primarily, although not exclusively, located in Bangladesh, Brazil, India, Pakistan and Turkey. At the same time, however, this sector is highly competitive and differentiation is key. It’s for this reason that it is such a crucible for new concepts, especially in the introduction of new fibres and the finishing of both fabrics and final garments. Sustainability has inevitably become the driving force behind many of the advances in denim production, with both brands and manufacturers working towards reducing the industry’s environmental impact by implementing sustainable practices at every stage of denim manufacturing.
Fabric dyeing and finishing
While cotton remains the staple fibre for denim, polyester has increasingly been incorporated in blends to achieve enhanced durability, wrinkle resistance, improved shape retention and colorfastness, while options for even sturdier jeans have seen the addition of nylon and even aramid and carbon fibres. Lenzing’s Tencel and similar sustainable cellulosic fibres can meanwhile provide denim with additional comfort and breathability, as well as moisture wicking properties. In recent years, hemp has also been introduced to jeans, in part due to its comparatively water and pesticide-light cultivation compared to cotton. Progress is also being made in the development of closed-loop production systems, in which waste textiles are repurposed to create new denim fabrics. Recycled denim has gained significant traction, with both post-consumer and post-industrial waste being integrated into new fabric production. The use of mechanically or chemically recycled fibres allows brands to offer consumers denim products with a lower environmental footprint while maintaining quality and durability. Conductive threads, antibacterial treatments and temperature-regulating fabrics are other recent developments and some brands have introduced self-cleaning denim that repels dirt and odours, reducing the need for frequent washing and prolonging the lifespan of the garment. Denim infused with skincare benefits such as aloe vera or caffeine has been another emerging trend.
Stretch
Arguably the most important contribution of fibres to the evolution of denim fabrics was the widespread introduction of stretch fibres and yarns for comfort, fit and freedom of movement.
However, spandex and elastane stretch fibres and yarns can prove problematic when it comes to recycling. For this reason a number of new alternatives have recently been developed. They include, for example, Asahi Kasei’s Roica V550, created with a special polymer technology to provide a sustainable stretch solution for denim garments. Roica V550 undergoes partial degradation under ISO14855-1 conditions, while being the world’s first Cradle to Cradle-Certified stretch yarn with Material Health Gold Level certification. New solutions for denim from Hyosung – the world’s largest spandex manufacturer – include regen BIO+ and regen BIO Max, both made with a high amount of renewable content. The company also produces an RCS-certified, 100% recycled regen made from industrial waste. Also launching in 2025 is Lycra EcoMade elastane made with 70% renewable content and certified under the USDA Bio-Preferred programme. Garments and fabrics made with it are said to deliver equivalent performance to those made with original Lycra fibre, and no re-engineering of fabrics, processes or garment patterns is required.
Fabric dyeing and finishing
Traditional denim production is notorious for its heavy water usage but very rapid progress has been made in this area. A number of denim fabric manufacturers have now embraced the latest technologies for more resource-efficient dyeing and finishing processes, notably the spray dyeing systems pioneered by ITMA exhibitors including as Baldwin, imogo and Rotaspray. These new systems are being incorporated into new and existing dyeing systems in combination with the established stenter dryers of Brückner and Monforts, both of whom have introduced extensive water and energy saving features to their technologies.
Dye formulations
These machine builders are also collaborating closely with the leading dye manufacturers such as Archroma and Dystar on new formulations. Archroma has recently introduced the Denim Halo pretreatment and dyeing process for laser-friendly, easily washable denim. Denim Halo combines the new Dirsol RD pretreatment with Denisol indigo dyes, including an aniline-free formulation, or Diresul sulphur dyestuffs to achieve a ring-dyeing effect. This superficial dyeing creates laser-friendly denim for popular worn or distressed washdown effects while reducing yarn shrinkage and improving garment tensile strength. Crucially, the new process also delivers a substantially reduced environmental footprint compared to industry-standard denim finishing. It avoids processes like manual hand scraping or potassium permanganate spraying and helps reduce caustic soda use in sulphur dyeing, which lowers the effluent load and improves weaving efficiency. The industrial synthesis of indigo for denim dyeing was a major change for the industry back in the 1990s, with the widely-used dye having previously been obtained by a complex extraction process from the plant. DyStar’s Indigo Vat 40% Solution was the first pre-reduced indigo to appear on the market, making the indigo dyeing process more sustainable, efficient, stable and much safer for workers in denim mills. The company’s most recent introduction, Cadira Denim, combines the pre-reduced indigo with a new organic reducing agent for the first salt-free indigo dyeing process.
In other notable new developments, Italy’s Officina39 now offers a range of dyes obtained by extracting pigment powders from recycled used clothing, fibrous materials and textile scraps via a proprietary mechanical upcycling process. From 100kg of textile waste the process can create enough dye for 20,000 t-shirts. The range now extends to 15 standard ready-in-stock colours, obtained from a minimum of 65% recycled textile pre and post-consumer materials.
Surface effects
Similar changes have taken place in the finishing of denim jeans, with laser finishing and ozone treatment technologies, as pioneered by ITMA exhibitors such as Jeanologica and Tonello replacing traditional distressing and finishing techniques that relied on heavy chemical and water usage. These technologies allow for precise and customisable effects such as whiskering, fading and vintage looks, all without harming the environment or endangering the health of workers.
Working with its suppliers in China, fast fashion leader Shein has also introduced Cool Denim Transfer Printing which uses less water and energy compared to conventional denim washing processes. Using this process, patterns and wash effects are printed on transfer film as part of a single design and imprinted onto white denim fabric. The patterns are then cut from the fabric and assembled. This process reduces the use of harsh chemicals and requires 70% less water than conventional denim washing methods, as a more efficient way to create trending denim styles without compromising on quality.
Smart factories
3D pattern-making and virtual prototyping have further improved the way denim garments are designed and developed and advancements in fit and customisation have transformed the consumer experience. Body-scanning technology, AI-powered fit prediction and mass customisation platforms are now enabling the selection of perfectly tailored denim garments without the need for traditional alterations, which not only improves customer satisfaction but also minimises returns and excess production. Another game-changer in jeans manufacturing has been the rise of on-demand production models. Traditional denim production often led to excess inventory and unsold stock, contributing to fashion waste. Digital printing, automated cutting and agile supply chains, however, have enabled brands to produce garments based on real-time demand, reducing overproduction and waste. The past decade has marked a period of remarkable progress in denim fabric and garment manufacturing. The industry’s embrace of sustainable materials, technological advancements and innovative production methods is now reshaping the way denim is both produced and consumed.
By ITMA Organiser
