The Lenzing Group and Södra, two prominent players in the textile and pulp industries, have secured the largest subsidy ever granted by the European Union’s LIFE program for their joint recycling project. With EUR 10 million in funding, the project aims to revolutionize textile waste recycling on an industrial scale and make significant strides towards achieving a circular economy.
The collaboration, named LIFE TREATS (Textile Recycling in Europe AT Scale), leverages the extensive expertise, knowledge, and technology of both companies. Lenzing will play a crucial role in developing the innovative OnceMore® process, utilizing its recycling expertise and REFIBRA™ technology. This advanced technology will enable the recycling of complex, colored textiles that contain a mix of cotton, polyester, elastane, and other components.
The project, scheduled to commence in the second quarter of 2023 and run for four and a half years, will involve the construction and operation of a facility for joint process development and an expansion of the OnceMore® process. Together, they aim to produce 60,000 tonnes of pulp annually at Södra’s plant in Mörrum, Sweden, with 50% of the pulp derived from recycled materials and the remaining 50% sourced from sustainable forestry.
The joint effort aligns with the European Union’s action plan for circularity and has received support from the European Climate, Infrastructure, and Environment Executive Agency (CINEA). Currently, only 1% of the world’s textile waste is recycled, creating a significant environmental burden. With this substantial funding, Södra and Lenzing aspire to become pioneers in chemical recycling, paving the way for a circular textile economy.
Åsa Degerman, Manager of OnceMore® by Södra, emphasizes the urgent need for sustainable solutions, stating, “Tackling the problem of textile waste requires a systematic approach, as well as technological solutions on an industrial scale.” Sonja Zak, Head of Textile Sourcing & Cooperations at Lenzing, adds, “The LIFE TREATS project follows an integrated approach to achieve real change and reduce the negative environmental and social impacts of the textile industry.”
In anticipation of forthcoming legislation and market trends, such as the EU’s Waste Framework Directive amendment and declining export markets for used textiles, Lenzing and Södra are committed to adhering to the waste hierarchy. They intend to procure only materials that cannot be reused through other means, aiming to prevent valuable fiber resources from ending up in landfills or incinerators.
The partnership between Lenzing and Södra signifies their dedication to driving systemic change in the textile industry. Since 2021, the two companies have collaborated on textile recycling, sharing knowledge and developing methods for the industrial-scale use of cellulose-based used textiles. The resulting OnceMore® pulp will serve various purposes, including as a raw material for Lenzing’s specialty fibers under the TENCEL™ brand, using REFIBRA™ technology. By 2027, the LIFE TREATS project aims to process 50,000 tonnes of textile waste annually.
Lenzing remains steadfast in its commitment to a fully-fledged circular economy, as encapsulated by its vision, “We give waste a new life. Every day.” Through ongoing innovation in recycling, including technologies like REFIBRA™ and Eco Cycle, Lenzing strives to repurpose waste and incorporate a significant portion of recycled materials derived from cotton production scraps and used textiles.
The groundbreaking LIFE TREATS project exemplifies the power of collaboration along the textile recycling value chain, bringing the industry closer to a sustainable and circular future.
